Dalymount before Bohemians

1847 – the height of the Great Famine and in Dublin the Ordnance Survey were engaged in the first major survey of Dublin since John Roque produced his famous map in 1756. On the plan one can clearly see the North Circular Road intersecting Phibsborough Road as it headed towards St. Peter’s Church. On the right a short row of five houses bearing the name Daly Mount. But who precisely was the eponymous Daly of the mount?  This brings us to Peter Daly, a prosperous businessman involved in shipping and also Chairman of the Orange Lodges of Dublin. He owned a tavern in Werburgh Street that bore his name and was described as a ‘Temple of Orangeism’. Indeed in 1823 a group of Orangemen had met in his tavern before staging a riot in a nearby theatre intended to intimidate Richard Wellesley, the Lord Lieutenant including chants of “No Popery!”, due to his support for Catholic emancipation.

OS Map of the area in the 1840s

A 1834 report in the Dublin Evening Packet recounts the funeral of Peter Daly, when his body was borne from his home at Dalymount through the city down Sackville Street as far as Werburgh Street Church to his family crypt, with many businesses closing along the route for the funeral procession.  His eldest son Samuel Allen Daly, also living in Daly Mount became a church warden in Grangegorman the year after and in 1836 became a barrister. By 1844 he had been elected to the Poor Law Union board of guardians for the Glasnevin area. It it reasonable to surmise that it was this family who first developed the houses along the north circular road that appear in the survey map of 1847.

Around this time the area now occupied by Dalymount Park was depicted as being grassland or farmland while the area now occupied by the tram sheds between the stadium and shopping centre looks like it may have been a garden or orchard. Further research shows that the lands occupied under long term leases by the Daly family and which included areas now occupied by the shopping centre, were ultimately the property of the Monck family and this likely included Dalymount. The Monck family were members of the Anglo-Irish aristocracy and their name is still visible in the area in street names like Monck Place just off the Phibsborough Road.

The Monck family came to own their Phibsborough estates through marriage, George Monck, was created 1st Duke of Albemarle in 1660 by Charles II arising from his services to the monarchy in bringing about the Restoration of the English monarchy. The Irish connection of the Monck family dates from 1627 when Charles Monck was appointed Joint Surveyor General of Customs in Ireland. He purchased an estate in county Westmeath and also represented Coleraine in the English parliament. Their son, Henry Monck, married Sarah, the daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas Stanley of Grangegorman, whose sizeable estates (including Dalymount and the surrounding streets) became vested in the second son of the marriage, Charles Monck. Overall, at the peak of their influence the Monck estate owned over 14,000 acres across five counties.

Samuel Allen Daly began lease arrangements with Henry Monck on these lands starting in 1835, however by the 1850s it seems that Samuel’s financial situation had worsened significantly and by 1855 his various leases around the Dalymount site and surrounding area were up for sale.

But let us talk briefly of Bohemians…

The Bohemian Football Club, founded in the North Circular Road gate-lodge of the Phoenix Park in 1890 had endured a peripatetic existence in their first decade, playing in the likes of the Phoenix Park, then in the Jones’s Road sports grounds, now site of Croke Park from 1893-96, and then in an area known as Whitehall, close to Glasnevin cemetery and the Finglas Road as we know it today. It was this wandering existance that some have suggested gave Bohemians their nickname of the “Gypsies”.

That was all to change however in 1901, when according to his own account, the club’s Honorary Treasurer William Sanderson, when visiting a friend in Connaught Street, looked over a back wall at what was known at the time as “Pisser Dignam’s field”, and got the idea that it might be a suitable home for the Bohemian Football Club. Though who Pisser Dignam was and how he got such a moniker remains unclear!

As for Sanderson, he was a tailor born in Belfast but a long-time resident in Dublin. He had been involved with the early YMCA and Tritonville football teams before getting involved with Bohemians in the 1890s eventually becaming Treasurer in 1900. Sanderson was clearly a man with a head for finances and could spot the opportunity that a well placed sporting ground could offer. He recalled that a cup tie against Linfield in 1900 had generated a Dublin record of £39 in gate money at the old Whitehall ground. Imagine what a better situated ground, adjacent to a busy tram line could generate!

The land itself was used for small scale allotments growing vegetables and fruit trees, horse grazing and also as something of a rubbish tip. The early Dalymount Park groundsman, Dinny Quinn would keep shotguns in the ground which he used to get rid of hares and rabbits that might be found digging up the pitch. On the plus side, it was a central location, only a twenty minute walk from the centre of the city, situated in a rapidly developing suburb and adjacent to a tram line which added to ease of access for both players and spectators. But to take a lease on the ground the club would have to contact the property owners.

This brings us from the Monck estates to the Taylor family. In one version of the story, by the late football historian Tony Reid, it was Sanderson and the Bohemian FC committee negotiating with the Reverend Henry Taylor who was acting on behalf of the Monck estate over the leasehold of what would become Dalymount Park. However, some subsequent research would suggest that Taylor was acting not on behalf of the Monck estate but on behalf of his own familial interests.

Henry Taylor was the son of Thomas and Sophia Taylor and was also the chaplain to the the Female Orphan House, more commonly known as Kirwan House which is one of Ireland’s oldest charities, founded in the 1790 at 42 Prussia Street to look after orphaned girls and to train them to be domestic servants and in the manufacture of clothing, and built on lands of the Monck estate.

The girls of the home received the following training and treatment at the “Orphan House, near Dublin, for the support of destitute female children, it is proposed that they shall be received from the age of five to ten years; that they shall be lodged, clothed and taught reading, writing, and common accounts; carefully instructed in the Christian Religion; and habituated to cleanliness and industry, in proportion to their age and strength; to spin, knit and when able, to make their own clothes. They are to take in plain work as the Charity advances; the profits arising from which are to be applied towards the support of the House”

It is named Kirwan House after Dean Kirwan who used to preach on behalf of the charity and raise funds for it annually in St. Peter’s Church in Aungier Street.

A description of the average day for one of the orphaned children in the 19th Century is detailed below on the History Eye website – “The orphans rose at 6 in the morning and retired to bed at 10pm. Their day was divided into three segments. Eight hours for work and instruction, eight hours for play and worship, eight hours for sleep. There was meat provided three times a week and dinner was served at 2pm. Each orphan’s upkeep was set at 3 pence a week or 10 shillings a year. Porter was also provided in the children’s diet for health reasons.”

Returning to Rev. Henry Taylor and the connection with Bohemian FC. Taylor would combine his role as Chaplain at Kirwan House with a position on as a Vice President of Bohemians (there were several club Vice Presidents, numbering between eight and fourteen at various stages) between 1901 and 1920. One suggestion proposed was that Taylor may also have represented the Monck estate in matters related to the lease of Dalymount Park and as such would have been their placeman on the board to make sure that they were happy with the use and development of Dalymount as a sporting venue. However, it seems that Henry’s father, Thomas had already purchased Dalymount Park long before William Sanderson had the bright idea to use it as a football ground.

As far back as September 1869 The Freeman’s Journal, in an article discussing the revision of boundaries in Dublin mentioned “Thomas Taylor, of Prussia Street, described as a 50l [pound] freeholder out of houses in Dalymount and Fassaugh Lane”. We know that Thomas Taylor was part of the same Grangegorman religious congregation as Viscount Monck and that in the early 1870s both men served it as Vestrymen. Taylor also lived on Prussia Street for much of his life, before eventually moving the short distance to Cumberland Place on the North Circular Road, right next to Kirwan House.

We can see how, given the congrational aspect and the close physical proximity that connections with the likes of the Monck family, the Daly family and others could have developed. We know that Thomas Taylor (who was born around 1805) was well established in the area, by 1862 he is mentioned in The Freeman’s Journal, along with his Prussia Street neighbour John Jameson of whiskey fame, as two property owners that Dublin Corporation were intending to buy lands from in order to develop the Cattle Market site.

In later life, when appearing on offical civic documents such on his daughter’s marriage certificate or even on his death certificate, his profession is listed simply as “Gentleman” showing that he had sources of income primarily from his various property holdings, though as far back as his son Henry’s birth in 1851 he is referred to as a “Retired Government officer”. It is likely that Thomas purchased the land when it was put up for sale by Samuel Allen Daly in the 1850s when he was experiencing financial difficulties. Thomas would pass away at the age of 84 in 1889, while his wife Sophia would follow him in 1895. Her son, Henry was by her bedside when she passed away.

It would them seem that Henry, rather than acting on behalf of the Monck estate was acting in his own family’s interest when an annual rent of £48 was agreed with Bohemians. William Sanderson would pay the first three months out of his own pocket. Whether a role as a club vice-president was offered to Taylor as part of this negotiation, or requested by him is unclear, however is was a position he served with Bohemians for almost twenty years, leaving in 1920 as he approached his seventieth birthday.

Throughout his busy life Henry Taylor had held many roles, he had been a student in Trinity College, though his time there would have been before the foundation of their Association Football Club in 1883, he was Chaplain not only in the Kirwan House orphanage but also at the Royal Hospital in Donnybrook (The Royal Hospital of the Incurables), was private chaplain to the Lord Lieutenant and from 1908 until 1932, was honorary Clerical Vicar to Christ Church Cathedral. In later life he went in retirement to live with his daughter Dr. Eleanor Taylor-Pengelly in Orpington, Kent where he passed away aged 85 in 1937.

Henry Taylor would have been around eighty, and more than a decade removed from his role as one of the vice-presidents of Bohemians when the renewal of the lease was up for discussion again in 1931. By this stage Bohemians were making ambitious plans to further improve Dalymount and make it the best Association Football ground in the country, bringing in the famous stadium architect Archibald Leitch to develop the main stand and the Tramway end terracing in 1931. Dalymount was by this stage the unquestioned home of Irish football and the venue for Cup finals and international matches.

Negotiating this lease on behalf of Bohemians were Charles Heron, Henry Mitchell and Patrick Hedigan, all local businessmen and supporters of the club. Heron ran a butcher’s shop on the North Circular Road with family members running similar shops on Dorset Street, Mitchell ran a printing business on Capel Street (his family still operate on the street, from Mitchell’s Auto Shop) and counted Oscar Traynor as a former employee of his. Traynor had surreptitiously printed nationalist propaganda posters and newspapers during his time there. Finally, Patrick Hedigan, a Limerick man, was the owner of Hedigan’s – The Brian Boru public house since 1904, the pub is still in the ownership of the Hedigan family to this day and they continue to be a sponsor of the club.

Euphan Maxwell – source Wikipedia

Representing the Taylor estate wasn’t Henry however, the family trust’s solicitor was George Herbert Parkes, a maternal grandson of John West Elvery of Elvery Sports fame. George practiced from offices on Fleet Street in the city centre – incidentally a solicitor named Parkes, former player Warren Parkes, represented Bohemians against a winding up order in 2011, any relation? There were two other trustees were named, Dr. Euphan Maxwell and Winifred Allen. Maxwell was was an Irish ophthalmologist and the first woman ophthalmic surgeon in Ireland at the Royal Victoria Eye and Ear Hospital, Dublin, however, she also lived for a time while a medical student with Henry Taylor and his sister Eleanor at the Kirwan House orphanage. Winifred Allen also lived on the North Circular Road and seems to have been a friend of Edith Parkes, sister of George Herbert Parkes. It seems that it was they who negotiated the new lease on Dalymount where Bohemians remain to this day.

 

Bohemians during Easter 1916

In April 1916 Bohemians were coming to the end of a season disrupted by war, but in which they were rewarded yet again with the Leinster Senior Cup, their fifteenth win in twenty years. It took two attempts to secure the trophy from old rivals, Shelbourne. The first was on St Patrick’s Day, a scoreless draw watched by 6,000 spectators, the second on 1st April.
No Dublin clubs took part in the Irish League that season due to the war and several Bohemian players had enlisted with the army. But the club insisted that football should continue and they managed to maintain Dalymount Park as a playing pitch when some rugby and cricket grounds were taken over for relief works.

Half-back Josh Rowe was with the East Surrey Regiment and was wounded many times. At the end of March he was reported to be returning to duty after convalescence and, it was said, “he hopes to play football again”. Full-back J.J. Doyle had joined the Officer Training Corps in early 1916 but got leave to play for Bohemians in the Irish Cup semi-final, which Bohemians lost to Glentoran in Belfast.

Also involved in that cup campaign was outside-left Harry Willits, who was team captain in 1915-16. An English-born civil servant, he played during 1916 both for the Royal Dublin Fusiliers’ regimental team and for Bohemians. By the start of the next season, however, he was at the war front with the Dublin Fusiliers and in November 1916 was reported as wounded. He survived and was back with Bohemians in 1917-18. Bohemians’ squad in 1916, coached by the everlasting Charlie Harris, included two internationals, Billy McConnell and Johnny McDonnell, whose 1915 Irish shirt hangs today in the JJ Bar at Dalymount Park. Others included regular goal-scorers Ned Brooks and Dinny Hannon, and defender Bert Kerr, who had joined in 1915 and was to have a notable career with Bohemians, including as team captain. He also had a remarkable career as a pioneer in the Irish bloodstock industry.

On Easter Monday 1916, a Bohemian team travelled to Athlone to play an end-of-season friendly, as they had done for several years. So friendly was it that McDonnell and Hannon played for Athlone, in a team that included several army officers. (Hannon later won the Free State Cup with Athlone Town.) Neither team can have been aware of what was happening in Dublin as they played their game in bad weather (3-2 for Bohemians) and were later entertained at the Imperial Hotel and at a dance at the Commercial Quadrille Class. “The Bohemians expressed themselves highly pleased with their visit,” the Westmeath Independent reported. However, the trip was to end less pleasantly for the Bohemian team. Due to the Rising, train services were disrupted from Mullingar, and they had to arrange car transport back to the capital.

Their late return was reported in the Irish Times among the repercussions of the Rising: “Some of the [Bohemian team] members who lived on the south side of the city had to stay in Phibsborough for the [Wednesday] night and, after walking via Islandbridge, Kilmainham, Goldenbridge, Rialto, Crumlin and Dolphin’s Barn, these did not get home until Friday (April 28), at 1.30 p.m.”

While the Bohemian party were concerned about getting back to the city from Athlone the rebels were worried about the arrival of British Army reinforcements from the same location. Many of the sites occupied by the rebels were chosen for their ability to delay the troops coming into the city, most notably the engagement with the Sherwood Foresters at Mount Street bridge.

Bohs 1916 pic3

In Phibsborough members of B Company of the Dublin Brigade built barricades on the railway bridges on the Cabra Road and North Circular Road close to St. Peter’s Church. They even went as far as to try and blow up both bridges with gelignite.
While B Company was able to hold off a number of attacks from small arms and machine gun-fire, the arrival of artillery onto the Cabra Road (outside what is now the Deaf Village) and the use of shrapnel-loaded shells raining down on the bridges just yards from Dalymount Park and as far down as Doyle’s Corner meant that the Volunteers could not hold their positions. A number of civilians were killed by over-shooting shells, while 15-year-old Fianna Éireann scout Sean Healy was shot dead outside his Phibsborough home.
The rebels eventually abandoned their positions hoping to link up with Thomas Ashe in Finglas but by the time they got there he and his men had already left for Meath and the Battle of Ashbourne. Many of B Company found their way back into the city and some joined the garrison in the GPO and then Moore Street.

While there is no record of Bohemians fighting with the 1916 rebels, some Bohemians did work in the British administration during that period. Highest-placed of these was founder member Andrew P. Magill. He was an 18-year-old clerk in the Land Commission when he attended the club’s first meeting, and later a clerk in the office of the Chief Secretary for Ireland. He rose to become private secretary to Chief Secretary Augustine Birrell, who resigned in May 1916 after failing to predict or take preventative action to stop the Rising. Magill later worked in the post-partition civil service of Northern Ireland.
While Magill was serving the Chief Secretary, fellow-Bohemian Joe Irons, an army reserve who was called up when World War 1 broke out, was posted to the Vice-Regal Lodge in Phoenix Park, to what is now Áras an Úachtaráin, to protect the Viceroy.

This article was co-written and researched with Brian Trench for the Bohemian FC website where it appeared in March 2016. In later articles we will look further into the life and career of Harry Willits, report on other Bohemians who fought in World War 1, and tell the stories of some Bohemians who were IRA volunteers in the War of Independence.